Decal Removal Guide
Taking your decals down
Our hand-painted fabric wall decals are made to come off again. The way you take them off matters more than anything else: warm each one first, peel it down the wall, not out from it, and stop the moment anything resists.
Read this first
The honest version, before you touch a corner.
Our decals use a removable adhesive. On walls that were well prepared, primed and fully cured, they should peel away without leaving residue. How they come off depends a lot on the paint underneath, and that's something we can't see.
Paint lifts when it was never firmly bonded to the wall: paint applied without a primer, only one coat, old, chalky or worn paint, some stain-resistant finishes, fresh paint that hasn't had four weeks to cure, or walls that were already damaged or textured. In rentals especially, paint can weaken as it ages, even when it was applied well. The wall looks fine; you can't tell until something is removed from it.
If paint comes away, it's a sign the paint wasn't bonded to the wall, not a fault in the decal. Tape, a hook or a command strip would do the same thing on that wall. Taking them down slowly with heat gives your wall the best chance.
What you'll need
Two things. The first one is not optional.
A hairdryer
On a low setting. Warming softens the adhesive and takes the strain off the paint. It's the single most important part of the job.
Clean hands
A fingernail is all you need to lift the first corner. Never use a metal scraper or anything sharp; it will mark the wall and can tear the fabric.
Step by step
One decal at a time. Slow and warm beats fast and cold, every time.
Warm it first, always
Hold the hairdryer on low over the decal for 30–60 seconds, paying most attention to the top edge. Don't skip this, even on a decal that feels like it would come away on its own.
Lift the top corner gently
Ease a top corner up with your fingernail until you have enough to hold.
Peel down, not out
This is the step that decides how it goes. Peel the decal slowly down the wall, folding it back on itself and keeping it close to the surface. Don't pull it outwards, towards you. Pulling outwards puts the most strain on the paint and is the most common reason paint lifts.
Think: peel it back along the wall, not away from it.Warm again as you go
On bigger decals, warm the next section before you peel it. If you feel any resistance, or see the paint starting to lift, stop, warm that spot for a full 60 seconds, then carry on more slowly.
Big designs in pieces: last on, first off
For trees, maps, arches and other designs that overlap, take the top piece off first, so you're unpicking the overlaps in reverse. Warm each piece before you start on it.
Wipe away any residue
If anything is left behind, wipe it gently with a warm, damp cloth. Don't use solvents; they'll do more harm to the paint than the decal would.
Slow and warm. Heat on every decal, peel down the wall, and stop the moment something resists. Pulling fast, outwards and cold is how paint gets damaged.
We can't promise a decal will stick again once it's been taken down. The adhesive weakens once it's off the wall, and the longer it's kept, the weaker it gets. If you do put one back up, check it's fully secure, especially in a child's room.
The short version
If you only remember two lists, make it these.
Do
- Warm every decal for 30–60 seconds before you peel it.
- Lift a top corner and peel down the wall.
- Keep it close to the wall, folding it back on itself.
- Take overlapping pieces off in reverse, top piece first.
- Stop and add heat the moment you feel resistance.
Don't
- Don't peel cold. No heat is the main cause of paint damage.
- Don't pull outwards or straight off the wall.
- Don't use metal scrapers or anything sharp to lift an edge.
- Don't rush. Two to three minutes per decal is normal.
- Don't use solvents on residue. A warm damp cloth only.
Moving out of a rental?
Work through this list and you give yourself the best possible chance of a clean wall.
- Photograph the wall before you start. It records the paint as it is now.
- Work in daylight. Good light lets you spot trouble early.
- Use the hairdryer on every single decal. No exceptions, even if the first few come off easily.
- Peel down, never out. This is the technique that matters most.
- Give yourself time. Two to three minutes per decal; rushing is what causes damage.
- If paint starts to lift, stop and add more heat. Don't keep pulling and hope.
- Wipe the wall afterwards with a warm damp cloth.
- Photograph the wall again once you're done, for your records.
Stop, add more heat, and take the rest off even more slowly. Paint that lifts wasn't firmly bonded to the wall underneath. Once the decals are off, a little primer and a touch-up with matching paint will fix the patch. Decorating a rental? Check your lease, and do the test piece before you put anything up.
Disclaimer. These instructions are general guidance for do-it-yourself removal. Tiny Walls cannot guarantee the outcome, as wall preparation, removal technique and environmental conditions are beyond our control. Results depend on the condition of your paintwork: paint that is uncured, unprimed, patched or not fully bonded to the wall can lift with any adhesive product, sometimes in one area of a wall and not others, and no test piece can rule this out across a whole wall. Paint lifting caused by the paint system is not a fault of the product and remains the responsibility of the homeowner or occupier. We can't guarantee that a removed decal will stick again. Nothing here limits your rights under the Australian Consumer Law.
Need a hand?
Email us before you start, or once you're done, if you'd like some help. A photo of your wall makes it quicker for us to answer.
hello@tinywalls.com.au